Choosing the right truck body components for Chinese brands like JAC, FAW, HOWO, FOTON, and SHACMAN requires careful consideration of quality, compatibility, and durability. Here are some key tips to help you make the best decision:
Yuchung Power are exported all over the world and different industries with quality first. Our belief is to provide our customers with more and better high value-added products. Let's create a better future together.
1. Understand Your Truck Model & Specifications
Each brand (JAC, FAW, HOWO, FOTON, SHACMAN) has different models with varying specifications.
Check the chassis type, load capacity, and dimensions before selecting components.
Ensure compatibility with OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) standards.
2. Choose Reputable Aftermarket or OEM Suppliers
OEM parts (from the original manufacturer) ensure perfect fit but may be costly.
Reliable aftermarket brands (like Sinotruk, Weichai, Shaanxi Auto) offer cost-effective alternatives.
Verify supplier credibility (check certifications, customer reviews).
3. Focus on Key Components
Cabin parts (doors, mirrors, seats) – Ensure ergonomic design and durability.
Chassis components (axles, suspension, frames) – Must match load requirements.
Engine & transmission parts (gearboxes, clutches) – Prefer genuine or high-quality replacements.
Electrical & lighting systems – Waterproof and dustproof for harsh conditions.
4. Material & Build Quality
Steel vs. Aluminum bodies: Steel is stronger but heavier; aluminum is lighter but more expensive.
Corrosion resistance: Look for galvanized or coated parts for longevity.
For more information, please visit foton truck spare parts(es,vi,ru).
Welding & assembly quality: Poor welding can lead to cracks under heavy loads.
5. Consider Local vs. Imported Parts
Local suppliers (in Africa, South America, etc.) may offer cheaper options but check quality.
Imported parts (from China) often have better standardization but longer delivery times.
6. Check Warranty & After-Sales Support
Reliable brands provide 1-2 years warranty on critical parts.
Ensure the supplier offers technical support and spare part availability.
7. Compare Prices Without Compromising Quality
Avoid extremely cheap parts (may be counterfeit or low-grade).
Compare quotes from multiple suppliers (Alibaba, Made-in-China, local dealers).
8. Top Recommended Brands for Spare Parts
JAC: Genuine parts from JAC Motors or trusted aftermarket suppliers.
FAW: FAW Original Parts or Fuwa for axles & suspensions.
HOWO/Sinotruk: Sinotruk genuine parts or Shandong-based manufacturers.
FOTON: Foton OEM parts or Weichai for engines.
SHACMAN: Shaanxi Auto genuine parts or Fasten for transmissions.
Contact us to discuss your requirements of GREAT WALL SPARE PARTS. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.
Final Tip:
Lots of updates since yall put me on the right paths. And thank you very much.
My tractor is badged-
Foton Europard, model FT254A, Code: TE 254-C161Q2K, 25 HP, Date 9/ on the side of the dash. The motor is a Yangdong Y385T 3 cyl Diesel, Date: 12/, Engine # Y, Order # -22 China Yangdong Co. Ltd, 4- wheel drive
The American made Loader is a Koyker 140 with the quick detach bucket.
Disclaimer: My Foton 254A seems to be older than most I have seen parts manuals or service manuals for and I am having to wing it using the newer models as a reference so if anyone has an accurate manual or parts manual please advise.
Many of the newer models than mine use the same parts but some parts are different. Don't get me started on the engine oil filter JX that comes in at least 2 different styles but have the same part number. Very little info out there mentioning style 1 or style 3.
It took the knowledgeable Circle G Tractor parts to figure out I needed style 3. Its ID threads were a little different and the face with the holes in it was more convex than style 1. No idea if style 2 even exists or why you wouldn't give a different part number.
Affordable Tractor parts in Texas has also been a very good resource for both information and great parts service. I have now ordered many parts from both and 100% satisfied. Especially for this Unicorn.
This is my first attempt to try and send attachments so bear with me please.
I have several topics to share updates on. I will first try to continue the Clutch thread then maybe repost under other topic threads for the power steering saga. Not great at uploading the images yet.
I ended up having have a Two stage adjustable clutch and not a single stage.
I took the loader off and the mounting R&L towers that bolt up to the side of the transmission.
The left side didn't give any clutch access as its sealed off. It was all done through the access hole on the right after removing the 4 side bolts and 1 underneath.
Used thin metric wrenches to reach in and unlock the nut on right and then turn the square stud to make the adjustment. Counted how many turns, bumped starter and used a ply bar to rotate to the next 2 studs. Mark each as you do it and write it down. If I recall correct, I used numbers 1-3 for the clutch and letters A-C for the PTO adjustment as I indexed it. Had to use a bright head lamp to see the clutch finger gaps as they get closer to the throw-out bearing face. I just used a visual guesstimate to replicate the gap for all three fingers for the clutch then again for the gap to the throw out bearing. I over adjusted the clutch at first and had to back it off because it wouldn't disengage at the end of the clutch pedal stroke. There are a couple helpful U tube videos on adjusting this but not many.
I had someone push the clutch in and out for me so I could see the throw out bearing move back and forth. For clarification it was the pto clutch adjustment that I over adjusted at first causing the pto to stay on even when the clutch was fully depressed. I backed off the adjustments I made and the pto would stop spinning with full depression of the clutch. Im sure a tech would set the clutch and pto way better than I did and know how to get a feeler gauge between the throw out bearing and the clutch fingers, but it is now usable. Before I was thinking it needed a full case split and clutch replacement because it would barley move in 1st gear.
The info I have read states that this tractor will need periodic clutch adjustments to stay working.
So, I assume I will only be able to do this a few times before it does require a case split.
Anyone have feedback on that or any part of this please chime in?
The thin wrenches I used for the clutch were 8mm and 16mm, the ones for the PTO adjustment were 13mm and 14mm.
On both, you loosen the lock nut, make your adjustments then retighten the lock nut before you finish up. You don't have to tighten the lock nut each time you advance to the next one but just don't forget to check and recheck them all before you're done. It's easier said than done at times in a very tight space. Get comfy because everything is done in many very short turns and indexing of the clutch housing.
Take some pictures as you go through the adjustment and post them here along with an explanation.
It will help others in the future.
Best of luck and don't be afraid to ask more que
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