It's Okay to Be a Control Freak...

…when it has to do with water. Drip irrigation systems are by nature very efficient. However, by adding a manual inline shut-off valve to a drip irrigation system, it becomes uber-efficient. This is due to the fact that you can completely stop water from flowing through a section of tubing. When is this helpful? Below you’ll find a few examples of when it’s useful to use a shut-off valve, but there are many more creative examples out there.

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Raised Beds

When using raised beds to garden, it is common to have each bed planted with different vegetables that have different growing seasons. As vegetables begin to ripen for harvest, certain plants finish their life cycles before others. If a bed contains plants that are past harvest, a shut-off valve can stop the flow of water to that bed without affecting others in the system. This keeps you from watering dead plants and wasting water. All of our raised bed kits contain ½” shut-off valves, and we recommend installing one for each bed.

Large Drip Tape Systems

In large agricultural tape systems, the number of tape rows coupled with long row lengths incorporate so many drip points in one system that if all the rows were watered at the same time, it would exceed the capacity of the system. A creative workaround is to use tape takeoff valves to connect each row of tape to the header row of tubing. This allows a set number of rows to be watered while the other rows are turned off. When rows have been watered long enough, the valve is closed, and the next set of rows are then turned “on.”

1/4" Valves as Drippers

A cool use for ¼” shut-off valves is to use them as a dripper in your system. The valves are adjustable and can be completely closed, allowing no water out, or adjusted slightly open to allow a slow drip, or of course adjusted all the way open if a lot of water is needed. We include these in our dirty water gravity kits because they have a large orifice and are less prone to clogging than drip emitters that tend to have a smaller opening. Besides being used as a dripper, these can be added inline and used to control water flow to individual plants or pots.

Shut-off valves are very handy items to incorporate into a drip irrigation system, and the examples above are just a few of the many ways you can utilize them to better control the water flow and distribution in your drip irrigation system.

KEY COMPONENTS TO A DRIP SYSTEM

For starters, you will need a standard outdoor spigot, like you would use for a conventional hose. Drip irrigation is not recommended for use indoors with sinks and other faucets.

Timer

The first component of your drip system is a timer. While timers are not required, they allow you to set the system to deliver water at fixed intervals. There are many types of timers available, from simple manual models to more sophisticated automated versions that only require you to set it up, test it, and walk away.

Anti-Syphon

Next comes an anti-syphon. This component is highly recommended, as it ensures that water from your drip system cannot be pulled backwards into your home. Some gardeners may not mind brushing their teeth with water that has been sitting outside in their drip tubing, but to avoid this, attach your anti-syphon to the beginning of your drip system.

Pressure Regulator

The pressure regulator is a critical component for ensuring safe, consistent water pressure within your drip system. Pressure regulators come in different PSI (pounds per square inch), though 15 PSI and 25-30 PSI are the most common. The average PSI for a spigot in our region falls between 50-70 PSI, which is too high for drip system components. The pressure regulator connects to the anti-syphon and forms the starting point for your system, protecting your drip tubing and emitters from leaking or breaking.

Drip Tubing & Fittings

Once you have your timer, anti-syphon, and pressure regulator connected, it is time to build your system. Drip tubing forms the skeleton of your system, getting the water where it needs to go through ½” or ¼” tubing. They can be cut to measure to fit specific spaces.

Compression adaptors are a type of fitting that converts the standard ¾” spigot or hose thread into ½” drip tubing or ¼” drip tubing. Connectors, tees, and elbows are additional types of fittings that attach to ½” drip tubing or ¼” drip tubing, which allow you to customize the shape of your overall system. You will need snug seals to keep your system from leaking, so getting your drip tubing into a fitting can be tricky. Soaking the end of the tubing in hot water to soften the plastic will help you work it into the fitting. When it cools, it will form a solid seal.

End clamps

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Finally, it is time to close your system! End clamps are the simplest way to close your system by bending a drip tubing back on itself. End plugs are a more efficient component, as they also function as a water release valve at the end of your system. You can also create a looped circuit by using a tee-shaped fitting at the beginning of your circuit.

SETTING UP A DRIP SYSTEM

First, have a plan before purchasing your components and starting your setup. Measuring your space and sketching out a circuit is a great place to start to ensure you have the right length of tubing and the correct fittings to get water where you need it to go.

Thinking about the water needs of different plants will help you choose your emitters. For example, a container of annuals in the shade will likely need less water than a container of annuals in full sun; a raised bed can be irrigated by building a grid of pre-punched ¼” drip tubing; a single pot of strawberries might only need a single emitter while one water-loving hydrangea might need a loop with two or three emitters to ensure its entire root ball is getting sufficient water. If you aren’t sure, ask a Swansons employee about the water needs of different plants!

Water will always follow the path of least resistance. Your system can become less efficient if your circuit:

● is too long

● has too many emitters

● uses emitters that drip at different rates

● runs uphill, or against gravity (e.g. up a structure to hanging baskets)

These issues can be counteracted by creating a loop, using a tee-shaped fitting at the beginning of your circuit. A closed loop allows for relatively even pressure throughout the system. However, while a looped circuit will help even out the drip rate of your emitters, having too many emitters or emitters that drip at differing rates may still require you to run water through your system for a longer period of time to ensure all your plants are getting the correct amount of water. You may also consider installing a second, separate circuit that runs at a different time from your first circuit.

Once you have installed your components, it is time to test your system. There are countless factors that will impact your water output, including wind, temperature, soil composition, gravity, and water pressure, so monitoring your system is critical to ensure correct watering. After running your drip system for a set period of time, check to see how much water each of your emitters has released. You can do this by digging into the soil around your plants to see how far the water has percolated down through the soil, or by placing a small reservoir (such as a cat food or tuna can) under your emitters to get a more precise measurement. Once you have tested your system, you can bury your drip tubing and fittings under mulch to protect them from foot traffic and UV radiation. However, keep your emitters (including drippers) unburied to minimize the risk of blockages.

While the spring and autumn seasons in the maritime Northwest are typically cool and rainy, you may need to continue using your drip system to ensure your plants are getting enough water–especially those that are still becoming established in your landscape.

You can leave your drip system outside year-round, but be sure to disconnect it from your water source and allow the water to drip or drain out to avoid damage from freezing temperatures. Storing components like anti-syphons, pressure regulators, and emitters in a cool, dry place during the winter can prolong the lives of these products. In spring, test your system again to make sure all components are working properly, replacing or repairing any damaged pieces as needed.

As of this writing, Swansons carries drip irrigation components from Raindrip and Tempo, which are compatible with one another. These brands are ideal for watering containers, raised beds, and smaller garden areas. Mixing components from other drip systems is not recommended, as component sizing between brands varies slightly (even when marked as the same size), leading to fitting problems.

Drip irrigation is a fantastic watering method that is precise and efficient. Once you have set up and tested your system, it also will save you time and energy in keeping your plants watered when your garden is not receiving sufficient rainfall or while you are away from home. While this post is meant to demystify the dozens of drip irrigation components and address the most common issues with setup, every garden is unique.

If you have questions about components, need assistance sketching out your circuit, or are unsure about the watering needs of different plants, us or visit the store. Our team is here to support you!

Tagged: drip irrigation, watering tools, watering, watering plants, watering guides

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